I'm writing this from the airport in Chengdu on Saturday, March 29th. The past week in China has been incredibly busy, and due to internet restrictions and VPN issues, I haven't been able to post until now.
On Friday, March 21st, I flew from Phnom Penh, Cambodia, to Chengdu at 6 AM. The 24 hours leading up to that flight were absolutely crazy. On Thursday, March 20th, I woke up in Siem Reap at 4 AM to watch the sunrise over Angkor Wat for the spring equinox. I rode my semi-automatic bike for 30 minutes to the main temple, arriving around 5 AM and staying until about 7:30 AM. It was a bit cloudy, so the sun didn't rise directly above the temple, but the experience was still incredibly beautiful and peaceful. I laid in the grass, meditated, and soaked in the balance of the equinox—a moment I had purposefully extended my stay in Cambodia to witness.
After taking some nice pictures, I returned to my hostel and relaxed for most of the day, exhausted from the early wake-up. That night, at 8 PM, I took my first sleeper bus of the trip from Siem Reap to Phnom Penh, arriving in the capital around 2 AM. When I got there, I saw people sleeping outside everywhere and had no idea why. Turns out, the airport actually closes from midnight until 4 AM! Since I had a weird surge of energy, I just chilled instead of trying to sleep, which was nearly impossible anyway.
The airport reopened at 4 AM, but no workers showed up until about 5:15 AM—so much waiting. At the airport, nearly everyone around me was a Chinese man. This was my first glimpse into Chinese mannerisms—some had a total lack of social awareness, sneezing openly, playing phone audio at full volume, and loudly hocking loogies. This would become a recurring theme throughout my time in China.
I eventually boarded my flight and arrived safely in Chengdu. Since I didn't have a visa in advance, I was attempting to use the brand-new transit visa. At the airport in Cambodia, the airline attendant took an extra 45 minutes checking my documents to ensure everything was in order. Luckily, I was prepared—I had printed my onward flight to Vietnam and my hotel booking in Chengdu.
The same scrutiny happened upon arrival in China. The immigration officers thoroughly checked my documents, asked about my purpose for visiting, and seemed confused when I explained I was backpacking. Eventually, one officer understood and granted me the 240-hour transit visa. I was free to go!
Stepping out of the airport, I felt like I was back in the first world—everything was clean, efficient, and designed in a brutalist style. I also noticed a lot of Russians in the airport. Knowing how difficult it is to access the internet in China, I had come prepared with all the necessary Chinese apps and a VPN to access Google, Instagram, and WhatsApp, since China's WiFi blocks all of them.
From the airport, I took the metro into the city and arrived at my hostel. Still running on adrenaline, I immediately set off to explore. My first stop was Jinli Ancient Street, where I bought a traditional Chinese shirt, had some incredible duck, and tried an oolong milk tea from Chagee. I didn't see a single other Westerner, which made me love it even more—nobody spoke a word of English, and I felt like I had stepped into an alternate universe.
Next, I visited People's Park for some tea. Chinese tea culture is amazing—people just sit, drink tea, chat, and play games. In the park, locals were dancing and playing Chinese board games I had never seen before. While drinking my tea, an older man approached me and, without much warning, stuck a long stick in my ear and vibrated it using a metal tuning tool. This was traditional Chinese ear cleaning. It felt weird, and I have no idea if it actually worked.
After 36 hours of near-constant travel, my body was aching, so I decided to find a place for Chinese cupping therapy (Ba Guan). I walked 45 minutes to the city's main shopping district, Chunxi Road. This is when I really understood China—every street was packed with malls and shopping centers. Consumerism everywhere. And Chengdu isn't even one of China's biggest cities! The sheer scale was overwhelming.
I finally located the cupping shop on the seventh floor of a tiny building in an alleyway. Since I wasn't using Google Maps, I had to rely on Amap, a Chinese app in English. The problem? Most of the places I wanted to visit were locally owned and tucked away on random upper floors of high-rise buildings. Somehow, I managed to find it.
While in the shop, a guy overheard me speaking English and struck up a conversation. At first, I assumed he was the owner's son or something, but it turned out he was a Chinese-American backpacker, just like me. His name was Yu, a 30-year-old who had studied at the University of Washington and worked in international education before setting off to travel the world. He invited me to dinner, and I immediately said yes—it was so helpful to have someone who spoke Chinese.
We went to a cheap hotpot restaurant in a mall and ordered catfish hotpot. In Chengdu, they eat jelly with hotpot to cool down the spice, which I found interesting. Sichuan Province is famous for its food, spice, and ancient culture, and this meal definitely delivered on the spice part—it was delicious but absolutely wrecked my stomach.
This was one of the craziest 48 hours of my life, but I was so stoked to finally be in China.