Well folks, I should be writing this from an airplane on the way to Tokyo via Hanoi — but I'm not. I'm in Kuta, Bali. Let me tell you why.
It all really started back in December, over six months ago, when an ATM machine ate my debit card in Bangkok, Thailand. It sucked, because my Chase debit card refunds foreign transaction fees when withdrawing money — but it wasn't the end of the world. I was able to use my Chase credit card for cash advances over the past six months. It cost me $10 every time I withdrew money — not ideal, but I had to do it.
I called Chase to replace my debit card back then, but it's incredibly hard to ship a card internationally while backpacking. I have no idea where I'll be on any given day, and no idea how long it takes to ship a credit card around the world. I tried to time the shipment correctly, but it never worked.
Fast forward to Indonesia, a couple weeks ago — hundreds of dollars down from taking out cash via credit card, but still earning credit card points and still getting the hard cash. Then one day, I lost my wallet — including my credit card and driver's license. Now I'm cardless in the third world.
However, it turned out to be okay because, surprisingly, most places in Indonesia accept tap (Apple Pay). I made it through the entire country this way — plus with the help of Rachel, who would take out cash for small expenses when needed.
Until today…
Now, a treatise on visas. Indonesia offers a 30-day visa for 500k rupiah, which you can easily obtain on arrival at the airport. It's straightforward. While planning, I realized I'd overstay the visa by a few days. I'd done the same thing in the Philippines before, paid a small fine via Apple Pay, and it was no big deal.
Indonesia also allows a 30-day extension — or so you'd think.
Two weeks before my visa expired, I tried to extend online, but the website was down. I was on a 4-day, 3-night cruise with no internet connection, so I had to wait. When I returned, I tried again. This time it worked — kind of. I was one day late filing the extension, so they charged me 1.5 million rupiah. Annoying, but manageable.
I got an email saying I needed to visit the immigration office to confirm my extension and take a photo. That felt a little weird, considering how smooth the online process was.
So this morning I go to the immigration office in Flores, expecting it to take five minutes. But they tell me that I selected the wrong immigration office in my application — Lombok, not Flores — and because of that, I'd have to go there to confirm it. I had no idea that was a thing. Nothing told me I'd need to physically go in; not until after payment do they notify you.
So I ask, "Can't you just take the picture here? Isn't it all connected?"
They said no — only the office you selected can process the confirmation. Makes no sense to me. You'd think government systems would be integrated. I genuinely believe they set it up like this to screw over foreigners.
Now they give me two options: wait it out or pay the overstay fine — 1 million rupiah per day.
So now I'm paying another 3 million on top of the 1.5 million I already paid to extend a visa that's now invalid. I'm frustrated, but I remind myself — it's only money. Part of the journey. Move on.
I take a flight from Flores back to Bali, where I'm supposed to catch my connecting flight to Tokyo. I land with two minutes left before check-in closes. My domestic flight was delayed, and I stood on the hot concrete waiting 20 minutes for a shuttle bus from the plane to the terminal. Stressful, but I just made the check-in.
I go to immigration to pay the overstay fee — 3 million, all in cash.
Since I've been tapping everywhere, I assumed I could tap here too. Nope. I'm screwed. I have no debit or credit card to withdraw cash. My flight is already boarding. I start scrambling — asking people if they can help — but I have no way to send them money. Europeans use Revolut. I had no balance on mine. Americans use Zelle or Venmo, but that's a long shot here.
Time's up. The flight boards without me.
I accept my fate. Thankfully, the airport staff were kind enough to rebook me for tomorrow — for a cancellation fee. More money, but at least I didn't have to book a whole new flight. I'll also owe another 1 million for overstaying one more day.
Now the only mission: Where can I withdraw money with tap?
I knew it was possible — I'd done it before in Cambodia and the Philippines. I asked at least five currency exchange places — no luck. I started stressing out. "How will I get out of Indonesia?"
I walked outside to get a taxi into town. At the airport, a driver tried to charge me 800k rupiah for a 15-minute ride. He said the only place I could withdraw with tap was in Kuta.
I almost did it — I was desperate. But I took a breath, opened Grab, and ran away. The Grab was 8x cheaper.
I arrived in the heart of Kuta, a tourist hub, hunting for the mythical golden tap. I asked 2–3 exchange places — again, no dice.
Then, a random motorbike guy came up and asked what was wrong. I explained my situation. He said he knew a place. I was skeptical — last thing I wanted was to get robbed. He knew I was desperate and would be withdrawing a lot of cash.
We drove to one place — no luck. Then further out of the city. I got nervous but surrendered to the moment.
Finally, we found a spot that could do it — for a 7% fee. I was exhausted and hopeless. I had to do it. I withdrew what I needed to pay immigration tomorrow.
And you know what? The motorbike guy turned out to be super helpful and kind.
In general, Asian cultures go above and beyond to help foreigners in need. It's one of the most refreshing and beautiful things about traveling here. I want to be that kind of person — to help when someone needs it.
So now, I'm in a hostel in Kuta, Bali. Hopefully flying to Sapporo, Japan tomorrow.
Any lessons here?
Not all travel is glamorous.
Take visa rules seriously.
Check the fine print.
It's only money — you can always make more.